I am sure you get the idea… Or you are able to just lightly tap the microphone whilst looking for the location with the signal in your receiver. I put this clock by the microphone which picks up the loud tick-tock. I use an old mechanical alarm clock (you realize, with these two big bells on it). To find the signal in your receiver, make certain there’s a signal coming into the microphone, otherwise the circuit will not work. Only in case you intend to use this circuit outside the house you might wish to choose much more temperature stable capacitors. Use any capacitor you’ve laying around, but NO electrolytic or tantalum caps.
But generally almost nothing vital right here. The default for the capacitors kind is ceramic, preferably the npo 1% (low noise) kind or equivalent. It ought to be about 1/2 the power supply voltage (about 4 or 5volts). This is a mini FM transmitter built and powered using 2 transistors, designed by Tony van Roon. In the event you determine to substitute transistors with something similar you currently have, it possibly needed alter the collector voltage of Q1 by altering the value of R2 or R3 (because you change transistors, it changes this bias on the base of Q1). A little bit testing and patience might be in order.Īlmost all of the components values aren’t crucial, so you are able to attempt adjusting them to see what occurs. Then, using a non-conductive/non-metallic trimmer tool, fine-tune this capacitor to find the clearest reception. Set your FM radio for a clear, black spot in the lower end of the band (88MHz). The antenna is nothing more than a piece of 12″ wire or a piece of piano wire from 6″ to 12″. C2/C3 are electrolytic or can be tantalum types. C1/C4 and C5/C6 are ceramic capacitors, preferably NPO (low noise) types. To get a bit of tuning out of the coil you could put a 4-40pF trimmer capacitor (optional) parallel over the 1 uH coil, L1. It does not store any personal data.C7 = 4-40pF trimmer cap (optional, see text)
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